Wiring
A Touch Tone Pad To Any Antique Telephone
By
Stan Schreier
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A
fascinating aspect of collecting antique telephones is that they can
be used today, in exactly the same way they were used almost 90 years
ago. 'Dialing' a number with a rotary phone is a link to the past.
Granted, the clicking rotary dial is much slower than Touch Tones, but
maybe that's a good thing. What's the hurry?
Unfortunately,
Touch Tones have become more than just a way of routing a phone call
from one number to another. They are used as a method for transmitting
information that replaces speech, and sometimes even the human being
on the other end of the line. When the 'talking box' says "Push
1 To Continue in English" there's nothing you can do with
a rotary phone that will make that happen.
I've
seen many circuits for wiring Touch Tone pads to antique phones.
All these 'schemes' had one thing in common; they were grossly over-engineered
because they went 'by the book'. They destroyed the original circuitry
and with the historic significance of the phone.
This
article describes adding a modern 'necessary evil' to a vintage device.
It outlines in detail connecting an outboard Touch Tone pad to ANY antique
telephone in a very 'creative' way that does not destroy the authenticity
of the phone.
It doesn't matter if the telephone is manual, rotary, sidetone, anti-sidetone,
candlestick, handset, or wall phone. There are no added wires
running out of the phone. The Touch Tone pad doesn't have to be
near the phone. In fact, it doesn't have to be visible.
You can hide it in a drawer if you feel it detracts from the antique
appearance of your phone. Only one connection in the phone or
subset is changed. You dial phone numbers just like you always
have. In the event you're asked to "PUSH #", you;ll
be able to do that also.
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The Touch Tone
Pad
All
the Touch Tone pads recommended for this project use integrated circuits
and oscillators with crystal or ceramic resonators for frequency stability.
Make
sure the pad you use has a diode bridge (polarity guard) so your finished
phone won’t be polarity sensitive. Figs. 1a-1c are recommended
units.
Figs. 1a and 1b are pads from Premier
2500 phones, made by North Supply.
Fig. 1c is an ITT #42 pad (my favorite).
You
can use a Western Electric #72 pad, but I’ve been told they have a high
failure rate due to poor switch contacts.
Don’t
waste your time with the old pot core units.
Vendors
for parts will be listed at the end of the article.
Fig.1a
Fig.1b
Fig. 1c
An
off the shelf plastic enclosure is used to house the Touch Tone pad.
They’re inexpensive and advertised on the Internet.
Two
completed units are shown in Fig. 2. I built the white one to
use with colored plastic 302s.
It can be painted with
Krylon Fusion paint to closely match the color of your phone
The
black unit looks great sitting next to any standard black desk-set.
Fig.
2
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Building The Touch Tone Pad
Fig.
3 shows the dimensions for the pad cutout. Mark the outline on
the case. Drill 3/16 holes close to one another along the inside
of the lines. You can use a small pair of pointed diagonal wire
cutters and snip between adjacent holes to cut out the window.
Use a file to clean up the edges. The cutout doesn’t have to be
perfect; it will to be covered with a panel.
Fig.
3
Fig.
4a shows an ITT #42 pad hot glued to the inside of the box. Fig.
4b shows the top of the box with the pad installed without a panel.
Fig.
4a
Fig. 4b
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Wiring The ITT #42 Pad
Refer
to Fig. 5. Locate the Red/Green and the Black wires. Connect
them together. Use one of the pad mounting screws as a tie point.
Cut off all the other wires, they aren’t used. No, I’m not kidding!
Fig.
5
Refer
to Fig. 6. Connect a 330 ohm ½ watt resistor between the two push
in terminals along the edge of the board. You can put lugs on
the resistor leads, or solder them to the terminals. The output
cable also gets connected to these terminals.
Fig.
6
If
you use a Premier or a Western Electric #72 pad, refer to Fig. 7 and
Fig. 8. The Green wire (labeled F on the board) takes the place
of the left push in terminal on these pads. Use the mounting screw
on the right as a tie point for the green wire (output terminal).
Like the ITT pad, a 330 ohm ½ watt resistor and the output cable are
connected to the output terminals. The Red/Green and Black wires
are connected together on the left hand mounting screw. As before,
cut off the remaining wires. Still not kidding!
Fig.
7
Fig.
8
Refer
to Fig 9. File a notch in the bottom half of the box for the output
cable. Screw the box together and install the adhesive rubber
feet.
The
plastic panel is from an old 2500 Touch Tone phone. I cut it to
size then used a four-inch wide, bench-mounted belt sander to get the
edges square and smooth. Double-sided Scotch Tape does a good
job of attaching it to the case.
Fig.
9
That
completes the Touch Tone pad. Now we’ll work on the phone.
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Plastic Or Bakelite 302
THIS
INFORMATION IS NOT FOR METAL 302s;
it’s only for plastic or bakelite.
If your phone has a large four prong plug open it and see if the YELLOW
wire is connected to either the red or the green wire. If
it isn’t, that’s fine. If it is, make a note of what color it’s
connected to.
WRITE
DOWN THE COLOR, RED OR GREEN!
Refer to Fig.10. Open the phone and find the lead labeled X. It’s
a YELLOW wire connected to the L2 Y terminal of the 101 coil.
The other end goes to the hook switch. Disconnect the X wire from
the 101 coil and put it under the mounting screw of the cloth strap
that connects the plastic top and the base of the phone.
Find the YELLOW mounting cord wire. If it’s connected to another
wire, TAKE THE OTHER WIRE and connect
it to where the mounting cord wire THAT IS
THE COLOR YOU WROTE DOWN, is connected.
Take
the YELLOW mounting cord wire and put it under the strap mounting screw.
There should now be two yellow wires under the strap mounting screw.
Refer to Fig 11.
Reassemble the phone. It’s finished.
Fig.
10
Fig. 11
Refer
to Fig. 12. Wire the plug with the telephone mounting cord and
the output cable of the Touch Tone pad as indicated.
Fig.
12
Refer
to Fig. 12a. Assemble the plug with both cords running out of
the hole in the side.
Fig.
12a
Fig. 13 is a diagram of a 302 with Touch Tone
interface.
Fig.
13
\Fig. 14 is an ivory 302 with the Touch Tone pad
attached. It was wired using the circuit in Fig. 13.
Fig. 14
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Metal 302
The
wiring of a metal 302 is exactly the same as the plastic models, except
you don’t put the two yellow wires under the mounting screw of the cloth
strap. The wires are connected together and then taped.
Refer to Figs.15a and 15b.
There
are some fancy ‘in-line’ insulated splicing gadgets made for spade lugs.
As you can see, I didn’t have any. If you do, use them.
After you connect the two wires together and tape them, reassemble the
phone. It’s finished.
Fig. 15a
Fig. 15b
Refer
back to Fig. 12 and Fig.12a and wire the four prong plug as indicated.
Fig.
15c is a 302 with vents, short ears and small plungers that I use practically
every day.
It’s
not visible in the picture, but it also has a DSL filter on the mounting
cord. Talk about mixed technology!
Fig. 15c
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Plastic
And Metal 302s With Modular Plugs
Use
the above information to modify your plastic or metal phone. Since
you have a modular cord on your phone, you must use a modular cord on
the Touch Tone pad. Along with the 330 ohm resistor,
connect the YELLOW and GREEN wires from the modular cord to the output
terminals of the Touch Tone pad. Cut off the lugs on the red and
black wires; they aren’t used. Refer to Fig 16.
Fig. 16
You will have to make an adapter to connect the phone, Touch Tone pad,
and telephone line together. The adapter is made from an ‘off
the shelf’ duplex telephone jack. Refer to Fig. 17
Fig. 17
Open
the jack by pushing the plastic tabs on the sides in, slightly.
Cut the wires and label the positions for the phone and the Touch Tone
pad as shown in Fig 18.
Fig.18
Figure 19 is the assembled adapter with the 302
and the Touch Tone pad plugged into it.
Now, plug the adapter into the telephone line.
Fig. 19
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354 Wall Phones
Refer to Fig. 20. Locate the Green/Red
wire on terminal L2.
Fig. 20
Fig. 21 is a diagram of a 354.
Fig. 21
Refer to Fig. 22. Remove the Green/Red
wire from terminal L2 and wire it with one of the Touch Tone wires to
the terminal labeled GND. The other Touch Tone wire goes to terminal
L2.
Fig. 22
Fig. 23 is a diagram of the completed 354 with
the Touch Tone interface.
Fig. 23
Fig. 24 is a 354 with a Touch Tone pad wired
to it. They were wired using the circuit in Fig. 23.
Fig. 24
Refer back to Figs. 3 and 4.
The enclosure for the Touch Tone pad has a sloping top surface.
For desk mounting, when you glue the pad in the top, you want the high
end of the slope to be toward the back (numbers 1, 2 and 3). That
will tilt the pad downward in the front.
For wall mounting with a 354,
the slope should be in the opposite direction. Glue the pad in
the top with numbers 1,2 and 3 near the low end of the slope.
This will tilt the numbers upward when the pad is mounted on the wall.
A wall mount kit for the enclosure
is available. Vendor information will be given at the end of the
article.
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Phones That Use Subsets
For phones that require a subset, the Touch
Tone pad isn’t wired to the phone; it’s wired to the subset.
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Sidetone Subsets
The internals of a Western Electric 534 subset with a 51AL candlestick
and phone line wired to it is shown in Fig. 25.
Fig. 25
The phone could be a 20B, 20AL, 51AL, A1,
B1, C1 or D1 mount that is wired for sidetone service. The type
of phone doesn’t effect how the Touch Tone pad is connected to the subset.
Fig. 25a is a diagram of a sidetone subset
with a typical manual desk-stand connected to it.
Fig. 25a
Fig. 26 shows the Touch Tone pad and a 51AL
wired to the 534 subset. Note the terminal that was labeled
‘EMPTY’ in Fig. 25 now has one wire from the Touch Tone pad and the
RED mounting cord wire from the phone connected to it. The other
wire from the Touch Tone pad is connected to the R terminal, where the
Red mounting cord wire was originally connected.
Fig. 26
Fig 26a is a diagram of a sidetone subset
with a desk-stand and Touch Tone pad wired to it.
Fig 26a
Fig. 27 shows a 534 subset with a 51AL and
a Touch Tone pad. They were wired using the diagram in Fig. 26a.
If you intend to use an arrangement like this
on a daily basis, I’d replace the old transmitter with an F1 cartridge.
You might want to replace the 144 with a 706 receiver. The old
‘talk stuff’ is historically interesting, but it really sounds awful!
Fig. 27
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Anti-Sidetone Subsets
Like the sidetone subset, the phone that’s
used with an anti-sidetone subset doesn’t change the way the Touch Tone
pad is connected.
Fig. 28 shows the internals of a 684A subset
with a D mount wired to it.
Fig 28
Fig. 28a is a diagram of an anti-sidetone
subset wired to a typical desk-set.
Fig.
28a
Fig. 29 is the same 684A subset with the
D mount and a Touch Tone pad wired to it. Note that the terminal
labeled ‘SPARE’ in the Fig. 28 now has one wire from the Touch Tone
pad and the YELLOW mounting cord wire from the phone connected to it.
The other wire from the Touch Tone pad is connected to terminal L2 Y,
where the Yellow mounting cord wire was originally connected.
Fig. 29
Fig. 29a is a diagram of a typical anti-sidetone
subset with a desk-set and a Touch Tone pad wired to it.
Fig. 29a
Fig. 30 is the working 684A subset, D mount
and Touch Tone pad. The subset was wired using the diagram in
Fig 29a.
Fig. 30
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500 Series Phone
Fig. 31
Fig. 31 is a venerable 500 series phone.
Doing this model was an after-thought. I
don’t consider them to be ‘antique’. However, I received emails
from a few 20 year olds that do. Suddenly I feel antique!
Fig. 32 is the phone as it was originally
wired.
Fig.
32
Fig. 32a is a diagram of the 500CD.
Fig. 32a
Refer to Fig. 33. Reverse the positions
of the black ringer wire and the slate/green switchhook wire.
If your phone has a modular mounting cord
make sure the colors are as shown. The black and yellow modular wires
can be connected to the point shown for the yellow mounting cord wire,
or the black can be cut off.
Fig.
33
Fig. 33a is a diagram of the 500CD with the
Touch Tone interface.
Fig.
33a
Wire the four prong plug as shown in Fig.
34. The two mounting cords come out of the hole in the side of
the plug, as shown in Fig. 12a.
Fig.
34
The information for wiring the modular cord
to the Touch Tone pad and manufacturing the adapter in Figs. 16 – Figs.
19 also apply for the 500 series phone.
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Only
Western Electric?
No. The blue Figs give enough general
information to wire the Touch Tone pads to any telephone or subset,
regardless of manufacturer. I used Western Electric phones as
examples because that’s what I collect.
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Sources
Of Parts
1
- For the ITT Touch Tone pads and cloth cords go to:
http://www.houseoftelephones.com
Call and ask for Don. Tell him you read
this article and what you’re doing. He’ll know what parts you
need. If your phone is a colored 302, you can paint the white
enclosure for the Touch Tone pad with Krylon Fusion plastic paint and
buy a cloth output cord to match the color of your phone. Don
manufacturers cloth cords in all the 302 colors.
2 - For the plastic enclosures go to:
http://www.tekoenclosures.com/enclosures/mini_tekmar.htm
The model numbers for the plastic cases are:
Black TK-S.9
White TK-S.7
If you’re going to use a Touch Tone pad with a 354, a wall mount kit
is available for the enclosure.
The model numbers for the wall mount kits are:
Black MT2.9
White MT2.7
3 - For the plastic panel and the four prong plugs.
Unless you have an old Touch Tone phone that you can salvage the panel
from, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atcaclub/?yguid=265635084
It’s
a free Yahoo bulletin board, sponsored by the Antique Telephone Collectors
Association.
I’m sure you’ll find a source for a panel, the four prong plugs and
someone that can answer any question you might have about collecting
antique telephones.
4 - Radio Shack stocks the 330 ohm ½ watt resistors and the duplex jacks.
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